Tender Rubbing Care

The Ultimate Detailing Newsletter

March 2007 Vol 2, Issue 4

Mark Perkins, submit this 1978 Corvette Indy Pace Car for "Car of the Month". Mark purchased his dream car in Tacoma, WA after retiring from the US Army. After joining the Army in 1978 he came across a 78 Pace Car. He said "One day I'd love to own one of those", well in 2002 when he retired his quest to find his dream car started. In 2005 he saw his dream come true he found this little beauty, although it had a lot more miles then he liked (94k) the site of this beauty could not be passed on due to the condition.

To submit your car, please send jpeg photo along with bio to jim@tenderrubbing.com

Table of Contents
Removing Fabric and Carpet Stains

Order your own Power Brush

Subscriber Functions:
Forward
Subscribe
Update Info
Unsubscribe

Contact Info:
Tender Rubbing Care
1123-3 Cedar Creek Modesto, CA 95355
(831) 246-3441
jim@tenderrubbing.com

Bio: Publisher/Author
Jim Pyatt is the owner of Tender Rubbing Care, published author and consultant. Jim Has over 10 years experience as detail shop owner and operator. Jim has won best of show awards for Cars and Motorcycles under his care at some of the most elite car events in the US, and is a member of The National Association for Professional Detailing and Reconditioning (NAPDR). Jim is also a contributing writer for several trade publications. To request reprinting authorization, comments, questions or to submit articles. Jim can be reached at jim@tenderrubbing.com

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Car Show Appearance

One of the thing I enjoy most, is teaching the art of polishing paint. I write technical articles for several professional trade publications along with this newsletter.

Some professionals think they know the secret to polishing paint to perfection, I'm here to tell you there are no real secrets when it comes to polishing paint to achieve, the look we all desire "water" I discuss and demonstrate the principles of polishing paint. The topics are reflectivity, mechanisms, reasons to polish, polish selection, polishing rules and paint evaluation. Along with the importance of choosing the right wax.

I am available for show appearances, to conduct this 60 minute demonstration. To find out if your event would fit in my schedule, please email me at jim@tenderrubbing.com for information and qualifcations of event. My schedule is filling fast.

 

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Removing Fabric and Carpet Stains

By Jim Pyatt

Chemistry of Cleaning
In the science of car cleaning/detailing, dirt can be classified as organic soil, nonorganic soil, and petroleum soil. Not much else by way of dirt exists in the car world. If you can figure out the type of soil, you can select the proper cleaner. With the proper cleaner, 99% of all stains will come out.

The basic selection of what cleaner to use is primarily a determination based upon the soil to be removed and the surface from which the soil must be removed. The three basic types of cleaners (acids, alkalis, and solvents) are designed to work primarily on certain soils and upon certain surfaces.

Choosing the right cleaner begins by analyzing, the soil and matching it to the cleaner best designed to remove it. Some of the common forms of soil are best removed by one of the basic cleaners: Function of a Cleaner's Components are In order to understand cleaning chemistry, it is necessary to know the functions or properties of the components of a cleaner. These are defined as follows:

Organic soil: Anything that contains carbons. This includes all proteins, animal fats, body oils, mold, yeast, bugs, bacteria, animal and bug excrement (waste mater), and others. That ketchup and fries you spilled on the front seat are a classic organic soil.
Nonorganic soil: Composed of minerals rather than living material, chemical compounds that contain no carbon, excluding the oxides of carbon, carbon disulfide, cyanides, and their associated acids and salts.

Petroleum soils: Substances that do not contain water and will not mix with water. Petroleum soils do not have a pH factor. Petroleum soils include common chemicals like motor oil, grease, and road tar.
The most common types of chemicals include surfactants, solvents, and wetting agents. The word "surfactant" is a fancy term for any soap or detergent. Surfactant molecules are created with two compounds. One molecule is attracted to the soil itself, and the other is attracted to water. The chemical compound that's attracted to water is called a hydrophilic. Its job is to surround the soil, and rinse it away.
Every cleaner needs a solvent to dissolve soil. The most common solvent is one you might not even think of: water. Some solvents, such as mineral spirits, work great on petroleum soils, like tar and grease, and may be necessary on surfaces that might be damaged by water (like the headliner, the fabric covering the inside of the roof of a vehicle).

Other solvents that are common in car-care chemicals include d-limonene, which is the chemical name for citrus oil made from orange and lemon peels. Solvents containing d-limonene are a bit more expensive than other cleaners but are safe to use throughout the car. A surfactant that is a good detergent (detergents break a soil's bond to a surface) will not be a good penetrating agent. Penetrating and wetting allows water to surround soil so it can be removed. As you might have now surmised, the chemist can improve the performance of a good detergent surfactant by including a second surfactant that has good wetting and penetrating qualities.

Did you know that animal fat is used in the manufacturing of soaps? Boil some pig fat, add a handful of lye, and you can make a bar of soap. The same chemical process that makes soap can be used to remove fats and oils. Chemists use a base, typically an alkaline, mixed with fats and oils to create soap in a process called saponification. Once transformed, fats and oils can be washed away with water.

Understanding pH
The strength of a solution is determined by where on the pH scale the reading falls. As a general rule, on the acid side, the lower the number the stronger the acid and on the alkaline side, the higher the number the stronger the solution. The pH reading measures "strength" not quality.

Few realize how rapidly alkalinity is increased as the pH is raised or how quickly acidity increases as the pH is lowered. For example, we begin with a solution that is pH 7 neutral. When the alkalinity of the solution is increased to 8, the strength is now 10 times stronger than that of pH 7. Increase the pH to 9, the solution is 100 times stronger than it was at 7 (10 X10=100). For each whole step up or down the pH scale, the strength increases or decreases by 10 times. This rapid buildup continues until pH 14, which is 10 million times as strong as pH 7. It is the same for the acid side of the scale. There is a far greater difference in the concentration of strength than the values (0-14) indicate.

Now that you know the basics, here are some tips to remember when selecting a cleaner. When in doubt, test a new chemical on a hidden part of the surface you want to clean to verify compatibility.

· Organic soil is cleaned with alkaline cleaners.

· Nonorganic soil is removed with acids.

· Petroleum soil must be removed with a petroleum-based cleaner.

Many detail shops use a general-purpose cleaner for all detailing. I often hear people say they use a product like Purple Power or Simple Green, both strong engine degreasers, to clean everything from wheels to carpets. In my opinion, this is both dangerous and harmful to the car in the wrong hands. After all, none of us would bathe with laundry detergent, so why would we treat delicate car surfaces with harsh chemicals?

You are about to learn all my little secrets, there really is no secrets. With our active lifestyles and the amount of time people spend in there cars, the average car interior is an easy victim to a multitude of enemies in the form stains and odors. Stain and odor removal is a science unto itself. A stain is like a locked door. Find the correct cleaner for the stain and you can unlock the door. the stain will come out. Upholstery fabrics and carpets vary widely, as do the types of stains. However, in my experience, there is a correct method and a suitable cleaner for most car interior problems.

A spot is a visible defect in the appearance of a fabric, Dried chewing gum on a floor mat is a spot. You can see it. But the gum is not a stain. Black coffee spots on beige upholstery qualify as a stain. A stain is the residue of a liquid absorbent which has soaked into the fabric. You can see a coffee stain; it is not a spot. Knowing the differences between spots and stains can help you select the appropriate cleaning method for a job.

The more similar the stain remover is to the stain, the greater the likelihood of your success. If you have to remove tar from the carpet, you will have better luck removing the stain with a petroleum-based product rather than with water. Similarly, detergent and water will clean better than petroleum solvents when coffee stains need to be removed.

Categories of Stains

· Organic/Natural Stains: Colored food such as candy, some medicines, cough syrup, Coffee, urine, mustard, curry, wine, vomit, and tea

· Petroleum-based: are substances that do not contain water, shoe scuff marks, oil, tar, polish, lipstick and other makeup, fountain pen ink and crayons.

If you are dealing with fresh spills, clean by daubing, not by rubbing firmly, with white absorbent materials. Cotton terry towels best because of its high absorbency. Avoid using color towels they will bleed from the rag to the surface you are cleaning, and to see the progress you are making during the removal process.

Remove solid, built-up materials with a tablespoon, spatula, or brush. Pretest all spot-removal agents in an inconspicuous area. Use small amounts of cleaning agent and blot frequently. Always blot; do not rub or brush. Identify the fiber to be cleaned; this will give you some indication of its colorfastness and resistance to spotting chemicals. Work from the outer edge of a spot toward the center to prevent stain rings. I have found using this method pushes the stain inward rather than pushing out leaving that ugly ring. Treat stained area with required spotting solution based on the type of stain, until the stain is removed. The final step is always to rinse the area gently with distilled water. Then absorb all remaining moisture with towels. Be patient: some stains respond slowly depending on the fabric, the dye, the age of the stain, and other factors. Also, remember that not all stains can be removed. The above advice will help enormously for most stains.

When cleaning a stain, try a neutral detergent and water first. If this does not remove the stain, then go for a cleaner with a little more oomph! Common cleaning agents for interior fabric stains include the following:

· Neutral detergent (Ivory Liquid) and water (1 part detergent to 20 parts water)

· Distilled white vinegar and water (1:1)

· Dry-cleaning fluid (Carbona, Renuzit, Perk)

· For removing protein-based stains "Casite Fabric Clean Gold"

· For removing oil based stains "Casite Fabric Clean Purple"

It's about time! A chemical company marketed cleaners based on science, I applaud Casite for correctly marketing their new line of cleaners. Specifically designed to attack stains based on the pH, most cleaners on the market today are all-purpose cleaners. I find to often consumers just reach for a general cleaner like Simple Green, these chemicals are most times to harsh for the stain they are attempting to remove, causing damage or discoloration to the fabric. The key for Casite is educating the public, the science behind each cleaner.

My testing found while they work great on relativity new stains, by attacking the stain at the hart of the given type, organic or petroleum. They were not strong enough to attack stains that were set in for an extended period of time. The stains that the enemy has taken hold, need the power of industrial cleaners like Stain Magic and Red Relief.

These Casite products come ready to use, no need to dilute or mix just spray on stain and blot. I found they work great on "new stains" shortly after they occur. Below is the procedures for removing stains.

I have included these two cleaners in my travel detail kit in my trunk, ready to attack the enemy at all times.

For removing protein-based stains "Casite Fabric Clean Gold" Works on food, milk, formula, beverage stains, coffee, wine, ketchup, blood, and chocolate. Works on water-cleanable fabrics, No bleach, solvents, or harsh chemicals.
For removing oil based stains "Casite Fabric Clean Purple" is a professional strength, ready-to-use cleaner that removes tough chemical stains like grease, ink, iodine, butter, cosmetics, shoe polish, rust, tar, lipstick, gum, crayon, sun block, vegetable oil, mayonnaise, and more. Great for stains that require solvent cleaners. Great on water-cleanable fabric No bleach, solvents or harsh chemicals.
What To Do About Stains
First and foremost, for any stain type, act quickly. For stain removal using hot water extractor is the best option on fabrics or carpeting. The following is a basic cleaning solution for a few common stains that appear in the vehicle. I can get most stains out using this cleaning methods.

Diagnosis: Carpet and Upholstery Stains

Solution A neutral detergent has a pH of 7 (on a scale of 0 to 14). As I discussed earlier, a detergent with a pH of less than 7 is acidic, whereas a pH higher than 7 is alkaline. Neutral detergents will not bleach fabric or remove fabric protection. Others may do just that. Avoid them!

Step 1. Use a spatula or putty knife to remove as much of the solid material as possible. The vacuum can also be a lifesaver by removing large particles of any substance that would stain if you rubbed it or moved it around. The idea is to remove as much of the contamination as possible before you begin blotting..

Step 2. Spray the stain heavily with Casite Gold cleaner , and allow it a minute or so to work. Don't scrub the stain. Use a terry towel and blot it up. Again, you don't want to spread the mess. If needed spray the stain again, and use your scrub brush with warm water and lightly agitate the stain, never scrub you will spread the stain.

Step 3. Rinse with fresh water and a terry-cloth towel, if possible use hot water extractor and extract what remains. If stain persists, it may have oil in it. Try Casite Purple, or minerals spirits. Dampen towel and blot the area. The mineral spirit dries very fast, so you may have to do the same process again.

 

 

Stain Magic from Bane-Clene

For removing organic and natural stains such as tea, herbal tea, coffee, mustard, wine, vomit, and natural juices. The system combines two powerful stain removing solutions that attack these extremely difficult stains. Part "A" contains an oxidizing bleach and Part "B" contains wetting agents and a volatile alkaline activator. Extraction clean (preferably with water) the spot to remove all surface contamination.

Step 1. Blot the spot as dry as possible, with dry white clean towel.

Step 2. Mix equal parts of Solution A and Solution B in a clean separate container. Mixed solution must be used within five minutes. Do not place mixed solution in a closed container.

Step 3. Apply the mixed solution to the stain liberally and evenly to wet all the stained fibers and agitate gently.

Step 4. Covering treated fibers with clear plastic will improve performance.

Step 5. Dwell Time: You may see the stain disappear immediately, or it may require 1-2 hours for the chemical reaction to reach completion.

Step 6. Rinse with hot water extraction.

Red Relief from Pro's Choice and Bane-Clene
2-part system for removing food and drink stains, this is a two-part system formulated especially for removing food and drink stains such as Kool-Aid, fruit punch, candy, cough syrup, Gatorade, and other products containing food and beverage dyes. Also effective on other stains such as iodine, Betadine, Play-Doh, and lipstick. The system combines two powerful stain-removing solutions that attack food dyes and other stains, breaking them down for easy removal during extraction. Part "A" contains wetting agents and reducing bleach. Solution "B" contains wetting agents, solvent, and water softener.

Step 1. Extraction clean (preferably with water) the spot to remove all surface contamination.

Step 2. Blot the spot as dry as possible with a dry white terry towel.

Step 3. Mix equal parts of Solution A and Solution B in a clean container.

Step 4. Apply the mixed solution to the stain liberally to wet all the stained fibers.

Step 5. Prepare a damp towel and wring out until moderately damp.

Step 6. Cover the stain with the damp towel.

Step 7. Apply steam heat to the towel for 1 - 3 minutes, using a steam iron filled with water and set at the lowest setting. DO NOT SET IRON DIRECTLY ON Fabric or carpet!

Step 8. Apply the iron directly over the towel covering the stain. Check the stain once every minute.

Step 9. When the stain disappears or changes to a light yellow, discontinue heat and remove the iron and the towel.

Step 10. Be alert for fibers that are not colorfast - if you see color loss, discontinue the heat immediately!

Step 11. Extraction rinse the treated area to remove any residue and dry thoroughly.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Power Brush, Wheel-Cleaning Brush

I would like to thank everyone for the tremendous response from the March Tender Rubbing Care Newsletter. "Until now, I have not represented any of the products about which I write in the newsletter. However," I have received hundreds of e-mails asking about the new "Laitner Grip-It Power Brush" wheel-cleaning Power Brush from Laitner Brush Company. The company says that the brush is just now starting to show up on select store shelves.

The bad news is that this company doesn't sell direct to the end user. I am so excited about this product and about the overwhelming response from you that I contacted them about how I could get these tool into the hands of my readers. They have offered to sell through my company, Tender Rubbing Care. I'm sure when you get this brush, you will want to share your reaction with all your car friends. I will be happy to sell to them also while the supply lasts, and add them to the newsletter mailing list if they would like.

Price is as follows:

Power Brush $24.95 plus $6.00 Shipping

Total $30.95

I accept Pay Pal for your convenience.

All you need is an email address, to place order please contact me at jim@tenderrubbing.com

Just request # of Power Brushes invoice will be sent you via Pay Pal

 

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Copyright © 2004 - ACME Publishing Inc.

 

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------